The Little Rann of Kutch

This winter, we (Shash and I) were determined to visit Bharatpur, but got disappointed after hearing it was hit by a drought and the lake was dry with hardly any birds. So we decided to go to Gujarat. We had 5 days in hand and planned the route:

Pune - Ahemdabad - Zainabad (Little rann of kutch) - Sasan (Gir) - Ahemdabad - Nalsarovar - Ahemdabad - Pune

Thursday 21st December, Pune - Ahemdabad - Zainabad

We took an early morning flight to Ahemdabad, reached by 9:30am and drove to a village called Zainabad, in Little Rann of Kutch. We reached Desert Coursers by noon.

Our first safari, starting early evening at 3:30pm, gave us a feel of the rann, surrounding habitat and some villages around. On the way, we saw a lot of Collared Doves and Laughing Doves on the wires. Then a Black Shouldered Kite, which is very common there. Inside the sanctuary, our first sighting was of a herd of Asiatic Wild Ass in a field off the road. We approached them in the safari vehicle and later on foot. They didn't shy off though a male Wild Ass was on alert and watching us on and off.

Asiatic Wild Ass (male), more males and females in the background

Just then we saw a big flock of Common Cranes in flight at a distance, followed by a bigger flock of Rosy Pelicans. We drove in their direction and discovered a water body where they had landed. It wasn't very approachable and we left the birds undisturbed.

A pair of Common Cranes taking off

On our way inside the rann, we saw an Indian Roller, couple of Pallid Harriers. Then came some common cranes in a field. Next to them was a male Bluebull standing strong. Another lovely sight was flocks of Larks (unidentified) flying from one field to another. They were so well camouflaged on the dry ground, that we were often taken by surprise when a flock took off in front of us, to go and disappear in the next field. After sunset at around 6:30pm, we drove back and reached Zainabad by 7:30pm.

The spotted owlet is one of my most loved birds, and the trees around in Desert Coursers had many. The night was sleepless, full of their calls.

Friday 22nd December, Little Rann of Kutch

The next day early morning we were supposed to visit the creek side of the rann. We started by 7:30am and on the way saw some Grey Partridges in the field. While driving inside the rann, we could see a thick long white line far away. They were all Rosy Pelicans on a water body. We approached them eagerly, after a while on foot. As we went closer, some of them got alarmed. There were some Common Cranes on the bank which took off. We waited behind a bush to give the Pelicans some time. After a few minutes, they too took off and the sight was unforgettable. We got a pretty close look at them while in water and in flight, though felt sorry for disturbing them. After some more Wild Ass sightings on the way, we reached the creek. It had numerous Lesser Flamingos and Greater Flamingos, all busy fishing their breakfast.

Lesser Flamingos and Greater Flamingos busy fishing

There were many male and female Shovelers and more unidentified ducks, Little Egrets and some Eurasian Spoonbills too in the water. We also saw a couple of Reef Egrets there. On the way back, we saw a couple of Painted Sandgrouse and some distance later the Rosy Pelican flock settled on ground. Some of them looked as if sleeping, while some were on guard.

Water body full of Rosy Pelicans

The rann is an amazing place, throughout as dry as it can get, and once in a while you find these magical water bodies full of birds. All satisfied, we headed back by noon to Desert Coursers.

We started our last safari in hope of seeing the bustard. Though we got late due to some permit issue, the safari driver made sure we reached the inner areas of rann before sunset. Right in the beginning on our way, we saw a cute Spotted Owlet on a roadside tree. Then a Common Kestrel on a wire across the road. In the roadside fields, we were looking out for the Indian Courser but couldn't sight one. Later, we came across a big Short Eared Owl which saw us and flew. Probably we woke it up from sleep.

Painted Stork in flight

Finally we reached the "houbara bait" where the houbara or mcqueen's bustards were sighted before. It was already past sunset and getting dark. While searching for the bustards, we saw two Pallid Harriers on ground. After some more searching, we decided we weren't as lucky and decided to head back. And guess what, just after some time there stood a Houbara or MacQueen's Bustard right in front of our vehicle, seen in the headlights. No photos as it was dark, but I could clearly see its features through the binoculars. It stayed for a minute and then flew. Content now, we got back on track. Saw a couple of Hares running madly around. Then a couple of Indian Nightjars. Guess the whole delay in safari helped us spot these nocturnal wonders. We got back a bit late by 8:30pm, right in time for dinner.

Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nature-pics/tags/kutch/

Birdlist:
White Bellied Drongo
Black Drongo
Collared Dove
Green Bee Eater
White Eared Bulbul
Indian Robin
Magpie Robin
Black Shouldered Kite
Rose Ringed Parakeet
Common Sandpiper
Spotted Sandpiper
Black Tailed Godwit
Black Winged Stilt
Cattle Egret
Reef Egret
Brahminy Starling
Rosy Starling
Bank Myna
Asian Open Bill Stork
Painted Stork
Glossy Ibis
Shoveler (male & female)
Southern Grey Shrike
Common Crane
Rosy Pelican
Lesser Flamingos
Greater flamingos
Pallid Harrier
Indian Roller
Larks (unidentified)
Painted Sandgrouse
Grey Partridge
White Throated Kingfisher
Greater Coucal
Shikra (female)
Red Wattled Lapwing
Pond Heron
Grey heron
Laughing Dove
Black Redstart
Hoopoe
Tern (unidentified)
Eurasian Spoonbill
Peacock & Peahen
MacQueen's Bustard (aka Houbara Bustard)
Indian Nightjar
Spotted owlet
Common Kestrel
Short Eared Owl
Wire Tailed Swallow
Desert Wheatear

Animals sighted:
Asiatic Wild Ass
Bluebull
Hare
Mongoose

Travel Information:-
Stay:
Desert Coursers at Zainabad, ethnic styled huts and surrounding area, good food, average service.

Safaris:
Morning safari from 7:30 to 11:30, the forest dept office where you have to collect the permit from opens at 8:00am. Evening safari from 3:30pm to 7:30pm, gets pitch dark in the rann after that. Entry points into the rann are some distance away from Zainabad, takes 30 to 45 minutes easily to enter.

Distances:
Ahemdabad to Zainabad: 115kms